One night in Nadi, a fish that changed my mind about coconut, and the lady who ran on Fiji time

The taxi driver took my bags, and I didn't touch them again

After three months backpacking in New Zealand, I treated myself to about a week in paradise. My flight landed in Nadi, and from the moment the hostel shuttle driver saw me at the airport exit, I didn't lift or even touch my bags once. Everything was taken care of. I had a hostel to get to.

The water taxi lady wasn't there, so I went to the beach

Check-in at Bamboo Backpackers was smooth. Bunk bed, all good. I was excited for my few nights on a small island starting tomorrow, but first I needed to book the water taxi for the morning. Reception pointed me to a lady at a little booth who handles it. First time I went, she wasn't there. So I went onto the beach, talked to some fellow travellers, enjoyed the view — just the Pacific stretching out, the light soft on the water.

She was there, but 'later' meant later

I went back and found her talking and laughing with a friend. I asked to book the water taxi and she said I should come back later. When? Later. Ok then. I was a little irritated, but the locals had talked about "Fiji time" from the start, so I understood. I went to get some food instead.

The fish that made me forget I don't like coconut

I ordered a white fish poached in coconut milk with some tropical fruits I didn't recognise. I honestly still think about it to this day. Soft, different, like nothing I've ever had. And I don't even like coconut. That was, in fact, one of the best meals I've ever had. I immediately had to share my joy and started offering bits to the strangers around me — one or two travellers at the next table. We had fun, just total strangers I met that night.

A crab, a dog, and a sunset over the Pacific

While we ate, a crab scuttled across the sand and a dog tried to chase it. Then the sunset hit over the Pacific — gold and pink spilling across the water, dreamy and steady, the sound of waves low and constant. I sat there, full and happy, and completely forgot about the water taxi.

She was waiting, I booked, and I finally understood Fiji time

I remembered, rushed back to the lady, and there she was. As if she'd been waiting for me. Maybe she had. I booked the taxi, said thank you, and understood why they say Fiji time is different from regular time. I remembered to relax and accept the now.